When it comes to suits and men's fashion, a bespoke suit is, bar none, the sine qua non of formal wear. It rises above the rest in terms of quality, fashion, style and elegance – and for that reason, it's always easy to tell when someone is wearing one, they simply look a cut above the rest. If you’re talking to someone and are impressed by their suit, chances are it's bespoke. Below are five ways to spot if a person is wearing a bespoke suit.
While handmade buttonholes are hard to spot for the untrained eye, they are one of the telltale signs of a bespoke suit. Custom, handmade made buttonholes take around 45 minutes to create and look a whole lot cleaner than their generic, machine-sewn brethren. If the button holes look immaculate, it's a good sign the owner is wearing bespoke.
Smooth lapel role
If you don't know what a “smooth lapel role” is, it basically means that instead of a cheap, hard-pressed crease that you find on ready-to-wear suits, the hand-made lapel creates a smooth dimension to the garment that eventually forms to the wearer's body. Another telltale sign that a suit is of extremely high quality: High quality lapel.
Bespoke suits tend to be unlined. While this may seem counter-intuitive, unlined suits are actually more expensive to make because it means that all of the interior seams have to be finished and look polished, meaning a lot of extra work.
A well-fitting collar can make or break a jacket. If the collar looks unwieldy or doesn't fit the wearer well, chances are the suit is not bespoke. A good collar is one that has been eased and set by hand. An ill fitting collar is not something that a high quality suit made by a high quality tailor would contain.
If you are observant enough to sneak a peek at the suit's seams, you’ll notice that there is quite a bit of seam allowance in bespoke suits which permits tailors to “let out” some of the fabric in the future if the suit requires alterations. Good quality, bespoke suits will not skimp on this fabric and it will be noticeable to the trained eye.
It’s simply not possible to get the look and feel of a bespoke suit in “off the rack” garments. The time, care and effort that goes into creating a well-fitted bespoke suit is noticeable, even to people who don't have a lot of experience buying and owning suits. If the person you’re talking to has a suit that looks too immaculate to be true, chances are it's bespoke, and definitely not “off the rack.”
If you’re planning on buying a bespoke suit, pair it with some of the latest trends in men’s accessories. Genuine python or crocodile leather, AAA black diamonds and 18kt gold in sleek but bold bracelet sets or wraps will make you the best dressed man at any event.